Thursday 13 February 2003

Harry’s Kewell, tapioca’s not

Some terrific news from the UK today:

I didn’t get up at 6am to watch the game live because I didn’t think Australia had a chance of winning. Wrong. I was confusing Australian soccer—which is a scandal-racked shambles—with an Australian soccer team made up of players from the English Premier League and other overseas competitions (talented Australians are immediately snapped up by foreign clubs).

I watched the full replay tonight and, although it wasn’t a stellar game, Harry Kewell performed superbly and it was pleasant to see an Australian team that hadn’t played together since their World Cup qualifier against Uruguay in November 2001 win against two English teams (Eriksson replaced the England firsts with “an experimental under-26 side” in the second-half).

<update>This Sydney Morning Herald story took the gloss off my delight by revealing that Manchester United’s Sir Alex Ferguson and Arsenal’s Arsene Wenger had denied Eriksson full access to their players.</update>

The news about the tapioca shopping bag probably made me happier than Australia’s football success. I’m not a picky eater but, whenever I’m asked if there’s anything I don’t eat, I reply without hesitation: “Sago and tapioca.”

For those lucky enough never to have encountered them, both are starchy grains used for puddings and other dishes: sago comes from a palm while tapioca is obtained from the cassava tree. When I was a child my mother used to make sweet puddings by boiling the hard sago or tapioca grains with milk.

I recall being made to sit at the dinner table until I’d finished my dessert. Our family had a strict rule about eating everything on one’s plate and my parents were fond of delivering homilies such as “Think of the starving children in Communist China. They’d be grateful if they could have tapioca pudding.”

(Years later, when I read Jung Chang’s Wild Swans, I nearly fell off my chair when she recounted how her parents used to say: “Think of the starving children in the capitalist countries. They’d be grateful if they could have rice.”)

Even now I can conjure up the feeling of revulsion, of forcing myself not to vomit as I tried to get the lumpy gelatinous mixture straight into my throat without its coming into contact with the interior of my mouth. I hope the tapioca shopping bag takes the supermarket world by storm and that within a few years every cassava tree in the world is devoted to biodegradable plastic bag production. (According to the Guardian article—titled At last, an edible form of tapioca - in the shape of a carrier bag—”any starch can be used, but tapioca rather than potato starch has ended up in the final product because most plastic bags are manufactured in the far east where cassava… is plentiful.”) With a bit of luck they’ll run out of cassava trees and start to use sago starch too.

Then no kid in the tropics will have to eat tapioca or sago and no parent will get the chance to say: “Think of those poor children in the northern hemisphere. They’d be grateful if they could have tapioca or sago instead of McDonalds.”

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Comments

Hey! It was only 3-1 before you get too happy.

Quite funny that England's experimental side actually did better than the normal side though.

Posted by: Kevin on 14 February 2003 at 02:08 AM

Oh, the utter revulsion of tapioca! Your description brought back (very nearly literally... :-{ :-}) the even worse horrors of English school meals in the 50s and 60s: monstrosities such as the undelicacy we nicknamed 'porcupine pie' - a vaguely-cooked sludge of unidentifiable whitefish and deliquescing single cells of once-were-potatoes, riven through with innumerable needle-sharp bones... But yes, for sheer revulsion as it moves down the gullet, the gelatinous eyeballs of "eat it up, lovely tapioca today!" could probably never be beaten...

Posted by: Tom G. on 14 February 2003 at 08:44 AM

Sorry, Kevin. I got carried away. I've made the correction. And you're right, the "experimental side" gave the Australians a lot more trouble than the "experienced" side.

Glad to have conjured up some fond memories for you, Tom. How do you feel about (powdered) scrambled eggs?

Posted by: Jonathon on 14 February 2003 at 08:57 AM

I think my mom would agree about the tapioca. I've never had a great craze for it either. It's really one of the worst foods I've had the misery of encountering.

There's powdered scrambled eggs????? (Wonders never do cease.)

Posted by: lashlar on 14 February 2003 at 09:06 AM

Over here (Seattle) there's something called "bubble tea" which is supposedly fairly popular. It's basically big tapioca balls in flavored tea. I've never been able to bring myself to try it.

Posted by: Laurabelle on 14 February 2003 at 11:52 AM

Powdered scrambled eggs? _Thank_ you, Jonathon, that was another dubious joy of school meals that I'd managed to forget... :-{ :-}

(Likewise an amazingly revolting synthetic mashed potato that we had one year, when real potatoes were in short supply - smelt and tasted of vaguely burnt not-quite rotting mushrooms. Probably was, too...)

Don't think I ever saw a real egg when I was at boarding-school in the 50s and 60s. Germany came out of rationing in 1950, but Britain didn't till 1960 - and that, combined with the traditional awfulness of English cooking (though it _can_ be wonderful when it's absolutely fresh), was reflected in the food. If that's what it could be called.

In short, we Made Do, and were fortunate not to know any better, I guess. Until better things came along: I remember the utter taste sensation of yogurt, the stunning delights of the first real pizza! And now I live near Melbourne, which must be something of a culinary capital of the world, and had happily forgotten the revoltingness of most of the food of my childhood until Jonathon so _kindly_ reminded me of them... Bah!

(But hey, there're also better - or possibly more edible - things that have been lost: did you get Kunzle cakes in Oz? Small cupcakes, chocolate shell, creamy stuff inside? Or that square pink-and-yellow cake with the marzipan wrapping?)

Posted by: Tom G. on 15 February 2003 at 05:32 AM

Laurabelle, I followed a link to "bubble tea" when I did a Google search on "tapioca" but I didn't follow it because the idea of tapioca tea was too revolting to contemplate.

Never heard of Kunzle cakes, Tom. But the description reminded me of Neenish tarts: a pastry base filled with mock cream and covered with white and brown icing. More details here:

http://www.anu.edu.au/ANDC/Austwords/neenish.html

Posted by: Jonathon on 15 February 2003 at 01:41 PM

Tapioca,
The jelly that sits there, looking back at you, daring you to try and eat it?

Awful memories.

I like the idea of Tim Tams much better.

Posted by: Geodog on 15 February 2003 at 10:20 PM

This discussion is now closed. My thanks to everyone who contributed.

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